Aquarium Care Guide

Aquarium Care Guide to Keeping Tropical and Coldwater Fish

Choosing an aquarium

Modern fish tanks are made of an all glass construction held together by silicone glue and are available in a wide variety of sizes. It is best to choose the largest size you can accommodate as this gives you a wider range of fish to choose from. Glass tanks must be placed on a base of polystyrene before filling with water to avoid damage to the tank base, however tanks with a recessed base do not require polystyrene. The aquarium is best sited in a position where it doesn’t receive too much natural light as this may lead to excessive algae growth.

Aquarium Heating

The standard method is by a combined heater/thermostat, which automatically switches off at the temperature you set. This should be used in conjunction with a thermometer to maintain a temperature of 77-80°F (24-27°C) for most tropical fish. Please note Discus require a temperature of 84-86°F (28-30°C) to thrive.

Aquarium Filters

As soon as fish are introduced into an aquarium they begin to contaminate the water with ammonia from their waste products and from uneaten food, the filter is required to break this down before it can damage the fish. A wide variety of filter designs are available, but most work on the same principal. Bacteria colonise the filter material ( foam, gravel etc.) they live off the fish waste and convert the poisonous ammonia. It takes several weeks for the bacteria to build up and for the filter to mature. Fish should only be added a few per week. It is important that you do not run an aquarium without any fish in it as this will not mature the filter, as there will be no food for the bacteria to live on. Filters must be run 24 hours a day and filter materials must only be cleaned in a container of tank water, washing them under a tap will destroy much of the bacterial colony. It is important to check the water regularly for ammonia and nitrite, these toxic chemicals are dissolved in the water and so can only be detected by using a test kit. Please ask our staff for advice about filters and test kits for your tank when visiting Prestwood Petzone.

Aquarium Lighting

A bright and attractive tank is easily achieved using an aquarium fluorescent tube and starter unit. This should be left on for 8-10 hours a day.

Stocking the aquarium

Plants can be added straight away to your new aquarium. Allow three to four days to adjust the temperature to the correct level before adding tropical fish. Coldwater fish can be stocked straight away provided you bring the water up to room temperature and use a conditioner to remove chlorine from the tank water. Remember to stock only a few fish at a time and not to over feed them. Newly purchased fish should be floated on top of the aquarium water for approx 20 minutes, in the unopened bag they have been transported in. This allows the water temperature to equalise gradually.

Aquarium Maintenance

The average aquarium should be given 25% water change every 3-4 weeks. This should be done more often with large fish or in tanks which are heavily stocked. Water changes should be carried out by using a gravel cleaner, this ensures removal of dirt from the tank base. The tank should be topped up with fresh water which has been treated with a good quality conditioner/dechlorinator. It is important to carry out this water change regardless of the type of filtration used.

Aquarium Feeding

Your fish can be fed 2-3 times a day with a very small amount of food (flake, frozen or live) once the filter is mature. Use only enough for the fish to eat in about five minutes. Suggested method of feeding: hold a small pinch of flake just below the water surface, let go and the flake will start to sink. The fish should eat all the food before it reaches the bottom. (Catfish and other bottom feeding fish should be given sinking pellets and may require feeding after dark when other fish are less active). Another important factor to remember is that fish should only be fed once every other day for the first two weeks while the filter begins to mature. Remember excess food will pollute the water and is probably the main cause of fish deaths.

Aquarium Stock density

The general rule of thumb is to allow 12 square inches of surface area for every 1” of fish e.g. a 24” x 12” aquarium would support about 24 one inch long fish, do not include the tail when measuring fish length. This should only be taken as a guide line as there are may factors such as the size of the filter which may affect the actual number of fish you keep.

Goldfish bowl/unfiltered tank

In an unfiltered tank the fish should only be fed once every other day using the method described above. This is very important, as feeding excess food will quickly pollute a small bowl or tank, causing a disease outbreak or killing the fish. It is important to change half of your bowl or aquarium water weekly if it doesn’t have a filter system. Always treat the replacement water with dechlorinator and mix with some hot water so that the replacement water is approximately the same temperature. Once a month place the fish in a clean container with half of the water from their bowl and clean the bowl and gravel. Put the fish and the original half of the water back in the bowl and top up with clean dechlorinated water of the same temperature. Only half of the water is changed to minimise the physical stress to the fish.

More Aquarium Information

If you would like to discover any more information regarding your aquarium then please come and visit us at Prestwood Petzone where our staff will be pleased to advise you on choosing the most suitable fish for your aquarium, plus help with any queries you may have. For a detailed map and directions on how to find Prestwood Petzone please click How to find us.

Suggested shopping list for aquarium set-ups

• Aquarium/cabinet: For best value purchase a complete package containing filter, light, heater, etc.
• Food: Flake food is the staple diet for most species of tropical or coldwater fish but frozen blood worn, daphnia or brine shrimp a few times a week will greatly improve your fishes diet. Catfish and other bottom dwellers will greatly appreciate sinking pellets or tablets.
• Water conditioner “Aquaplus” or “Stress Coat” added to the fresh water with every water change will remove chlorine and other harmful chemicals.
• Test Kits: essential for detecting ammonia and nitrite produced by the fish. These can prove fatal if not kept under control. Remember both these toxic wastes dissolve in the water, so it is quite possible to have clear water that is still poisonous for your fish.
• Gravel Cleaner: syphons water from the aquarium and removes solid waste from the gravel, use each time you carry out a water change.
• Thermometer
• Gravel
• Filter Starter “Cycle” or “Stress Zyme” a culture of live bacteria that helps to improve filter efficiency and reduce waste in the water.
• Plants and Decorations these can largely be selected according to personal preferences, although many species of catfish and loaches appreciate some shelter to hide in.
• Algae scraper or magnet cleaner to clean the aquarium glass.
• Background, available off the roll in a variety of designs and fixed to the outside of the back of the aquarium.
• Net

The information contained in this aquarium care guide to keeping tropical and coldwater fish is intended to provide basic guidance only and is no substitute for a good book. Recommended titles include “The Guide to Tropical Fish” and “The Bumper Guide to Tropical Fish” published by Interpet. We have a large stock of books, Please contact us if you would like further information regarding any of the books or products that we stock. You can contact us by phone, e-mail or letter. You can find all of our contact details by clicking Contact Us.

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